PRINTING THE PARTS: ------------------- -I HAVE INLUDED STL AND STEP VERSIONS OF ALL THE PARTS. -CONTROL BOARD HOLDER V1.000 PRINTED @ 20% INFILL -ENDSTOP_AMPLIFIER_BOARD V0.002 CASE_BOTTOM PRINTED @ 20% INFILL -ENDSTOP_AMPLIFIER_BOARD V0.002 CASE_TOP PRINTED @ 20% INFILL -LIMIT SWITCH HOLDER PRINTED @ 25% INFILL -MOTOR_HOLDER_BRACKET PRINTED AT 20% INFILL, WITH MODIFIER AT 100% INFILL -MOTOR_HOLDER_MAIN_BODY PRINTED AT 20% INFULL WITH MODIFIER AT 100% INFULL -MOTOR_PULLEY PRINTED AT 100% INFULL. ONE END OF THE CENTER HOLE IS SHAPED THE SAME AS A D-SHAPED MOTOR SHAFT. THE OTHER END HAS A SLIGHTLY LARGER RECTANGULAR OPENING. THE END WITH THE LARGER OPENING SHOULD BE TOWARDS THE TOP WHEN PRINTING ON A FDM PRINTER. -ALL PARTS WERE PRINTED WITH PLA CIRCUIT DIAGRAMS: ----------------- -WERE MADE IN A PROGRAM CALLED FREEPCB (IT'S FREE) -ARE DESIGNED TO WORK WITH 2.54MM SPACING PERF BOARD -THE AMPLIFIER BOARD WAS A LAST MINUTE HACK TO IMPROVE THE SIGNAL QUALITY FROM THE END STOPS FARTHEST AWAY (SEVERAL METERS RUN OF WIRE). I FOUND THAT PULLING A SIGNAL LOR OR HIGH WOULD NOT STOP ALL INTERFERANCE FROM THE TUBE, SO INSTEAD I FORCED THE END STOP SIGNAL TO OPERATE A RELAY...THAT WAY IT NEEDS TO BE CURRENT AS WELL AS VOLTAGE. WORKS WELL BUT NOISY, AND THERE ARE PROBABLY BETTER WAYS. -LASER BED LEVEL SYSTEM v6.fpc COULD PROBABLY USE SOME TWEEKING, ESPECIALLY TO PREVENT NOISES WHEN PROGRAMMING THE TEENSY IN-SYSTEM. I THINK THE EN PINS NEED PULLUP RESISTORS? ASSEMBLING PARTS: ----------------- -PUT TWO SCREWS INTO MOTOR BRACKET BASE AS SHOWN IN "MOTOR BRACKET BASE.jpg" -TAP THE LONG THRU HOLES IN THE MOTOR BRACKET AS DEEP AS YOUR TAP WILL GO, THEN USE M4x0.7 THREADED ROD OR A LONG FULLY THREADED SCREW TO GO THE REST OF THE WAY. BE CAFEFULL SO YOU DON'T CRACK THE PLASTIC. THEN INSTALL SOME LONG SCREWS IN THOSE HOLES (I DIDN'T HAVE ANY FULLY THREADED SCREWS LONG ENOUGH SO I USED SOME PIECES OF THREADED ROD WITH TWO NUTS JAMMED ACTING AS A HEAD). SEE "MOTOR BRACKET.jpg" -SLIDE THE PULLEY ONTO THE MOTOR. THE MOTOR SHAFT MUST HAVE A FLAT SPOT (AKA A D-SHAFT). THERE IS A MATCHING SHAPE IN THE PULLEY TO KEEP IT FROM SPINNING. LEAVE ABOUT 1-2MM OF GAP BETWEEN THE PULLEY AND THE FACE OF THE MOTOR (SEE "MOTOR WITH PULLEY.jpg"). SHOULD BE A TIGHT FIT...IF NOT, ADJUST THE HOLE SIZE AND PRINT AGAIN. -INSTALL THE MOTOR ONTO THE BRACKET. THE PLUG SHOULD FACE THE SAME DIRECTION AS THE SCREW HEADS (SEE "MOTOR BRACKET WITH MOTOR.jpg") -CAREFULLY PRESS THE MOTOR BACKET INTO THE MOTOR BRACKET BASE. SOME BENDING WILL OCCUR, BUT I DID IT ABOUT 20 TIMES WITHOUT ISSUES. SEE "PRESSING TOGETHER.jpg" -YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE OLD BELT AND TENSIONER. WHILE DOING THIS, INSTALL THE 4 SMALLER BELTS AROUND THE 4 RODS CONTROLLING THE Z LOCATION. -INSTALL MOTOR MOUNTS SO THAT THEY ARE JUST CLOSE ENOUGH TO BE ABLE TO GET THE BELT ON AND OFF WHEN THE MOTOR MOUNTS TENSIONING SCREWS ARE BACKED ALL THE WAY OUT. YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL TWO 3.3MM HOLES FOR EACH MOTOR MOUNT, AND THEN TAP THEM WITH M4x0.7 THREADS. -INSTALL MOTOR MOUNTS AND TURN SCREWS TO TENSION BELTS. -END STOP MOUNTS ARE PRETTY OBVIOUS HOW TO USE...THEY SHOULD BE MOUNTED AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL YOU EVER WANT YOUR BED TO GO, WITH SCREWS NEAR THE MIDDLE OF THE SLOTS. I MIS-MEASURED SO MINE ARE NOW ALMOST AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SLOTS. SEE "ENDSTOP.jpg" -CONNECT EVERYTHING UP TO THE CONTROL BOARD. NOTE THAT THE MOTOR BOARD AS DESIGNED IS BASED ON THINGS I HAD ON HAND. AT THE TIME OF WRITING, JST PH4 CONNECTORS ARE BACKORDERED EVERYWHERE SO I IMPROVISED A BIT. ALSO, A 3D PRINTER CONTROL BOARD WILL PROBABLY WORK IF YOU HAVE IT LAYING AROUND...JUST MAKE SURE IT CAN HANDLE THE VOLTAGE OF YOUR LASTER CUTTER. CODE: ----- CODE IS THE MAIN PROBLEM RIGHT NOW; I'M NOT GREAT AT CODE. I INCLUDED VERSION 0.006, WHICH WORKS BUT HAS ISSUES WITH SKIPPED STEPS. I TRIED ADAPTING IT TO A LIBRARY DESIGNED TO DEAL WITH THIS (VERSION 0.007), BUT THAT DOESN'T WORK AT ALL. HELP HERE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. PURCHASED PARTS: ---------------- 4X NEMA-17 STEPPER MOTOR WITH 5MM D-SHAFT 4X SWITCH,LIMIT,WINOMO X001EBMAH1 4X CLOSED LOOP BELTS, HTD 3M SPEC, I USED 309MM BUT ANYTHING IN THE 250-450MM RANGE SHOULD WORK. 4X STEPPER DRIVER, I USED A4988 BUT OTHER STEPSTICKS SHOULD WORK 1X TEENSY 2.0 EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE CIRCUIT DIAGRAMS (CIRCUITS CAN BE MADE ON PROJECT BOARD/PERF BOARD) WIRES AND PH CONNECTORS FOR THE MOTORS AND END STOPS AND FOR CONNECTING TO YOUR MAIN LASER CONTROLLER TO GET Z-STEP, Z-DIR, AND GND VARIOUS M4 AND M3 SCREWS ?I THINK EVERYTHING ELSE IS PRINTED?